Take care of those doggies

October 17th, 2009

I’m talking about protecting your dog’s feet!

Most runners give a great deal of consideration to the type of shoe they wear, the inserts they use, and the socks they choose.  Your dog just has the running gear he came with: four paws and pads.   Most importantly, your dog relies on you to take care of him.

What kind of paw care does your dog need?

Check your dog’s feet every day.  Look for foreign bodies stuck between the toes, cuts , swelling on the pads, and cracked nails.

Foxtails and burrs like to burrow into the webbing between the toes. Removing these irritants can save your dog from infected, draining tracts later on.

Clean up cuts with fresh water, hydrogen peroxide and dilute betadine solution.  (Not alcohol!) Superficial cuts probably don’t need more than twice daily cleaning and antibiotic ointment before they heal.  Anything deeper needs to be checked by your veterinarian.

Press gently on the pads.  Your dog shouldn’t show any signs of discomfort.  Look out for corns which are hard,  circular areas on/in the pad.  Any dog can get warty-type growths deep in the pad and greyhounds are known for developing hard, painful corns long after their track days have ended.  See your veterinarian if you think there are any abnormal areas on the pads.

Nails should be trimmed short to prevent twisting and tearing.   Torn nails will grow back- just as ours do.  Chronically dry, cracked nails or inflamed nail beds (where the nail meets the skin) should be checked by your veterinarian to make sure there is no underlying nutritional or metabolic cause.

Watch where you lead

Most running dogs will  follow you anywhere.  Don’t lead them onto hot pavement or  icy/salted roads that can damage their pads.

Take care to wash off your dog’s feet after a winter road run.  The road salt can be an intestinal irritant if they lick their own paws clean.

Also pay attention to how well your pup is keeping up.  While some dogs will call it quits when they’re tired, there are many who won’t stop until they drop.  (I’ll never forget the yellow lab who came into my hospital after playing chase-the-ball on the pavement schoolyard basketball court until all of his paw pads were raw and bleeding; he couldn’t walk but he was still carrying the tennis ball…)

It’s time to turn around if your dog is lagging at the end of the lead, dragging his toes or losing the “spring” in his gait.

Heading off-road?

Dog shoes are offered by half a dozen pet product manufacturers.  You can find everything from “housewear” to “high-tops “!  It may seem like a silly idea, but a well-fitted set of shoes can save your dog from “trail burn”  (the canine equivalent of road rash on their pads), help keep your dog warm in cold conditions, and protect the pads of weekend warriors.

The next time you lace up your shoes for a run, maybe you’ll be doing the same for your dog!

Liz Devitt, DVM

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October is Adopt-A-Shelter-Dog Month

October 4th, 2009

October is Adopt a Shelter Dog Month and The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) encourages people who are looking for  their next “best friend” to check out the millions of dogs at local shelters across the country.  However, responsible pet ownership requires more than simply agreeing to take an animal into your life; the potential adopter should be ready to make a commitment that will enhance the lives of both the human and the animal.

According to the ASPCA, with nearly 10 million animals entering local shelters across the country each year the Adopt a Shelter Dog Month helps focus attention on the pet population problem we face in this country.

Good training makes good dogs

Renowned dog trainer Joel Silverman also says that shelter animals make good pets, and that proper training is the key. Silverman’s many canine pupils have starred in commercials, television shows, and feature films and often come from shelters. According to Silverman, pet owners that train their dogs have better relationships with their pets and less problems in the home.

Why so many shelter dogs?

Researchers surveyed people turning animals in to 12 various shelters around the country, in a  study conducted by the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy, to find our why animals end up there. The study was published in the current issue of the Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science, and can be seen at The ASPCA’s Web site (http://www.aspca.org).

The following answers were given:

29 percent surrendered their dogs due to behavior problems

29 percent surrendered their dogs because of the family’s housing situation

25 percent surrendered their dogs citing incompatibility with the family’s lifestyle

15 percent surrendering their dogs due to the family’s preparation and/or expectations.

I don’t have any statistics to back me up, but I’m willing to bet that folks who runs with their dogs don’t give up their pup for “incompatible lifestyle” reasons.

What kind of four-legged running partner should you look for?

That depends on the distance you prefer to run.  A browse through the DogRunDog race entry lists shows people teamed up with yorkies and terriers, to Labs and Great Danes.

In general, smaller breeds and short nosed dogs are better suited for shorter distances; sighthounds are better at sprinting;  larger dogs are better at distance.    The biggest breeds,  (Danes, Newfies, Wolfhounds), often have hip and heart problems that get in the way of longer, leashed activity.   That said,  we all know exceptions to that statement.

Without a doubt, the happiest hounds are the ones that get to go with their people.  So hook the leash on your dog, lace up your running shoes, and get outside.  I guarantee it will make you happy, too.

Liz Devitt, DVM

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Carb loading?

September 20th, 2009

Forget the pre-race pasta dinner for your pooch.

He may be your best friend, but research shows that what’s good for your nutritional plan might not be the most effective approach for your dog…

In the past, canine performance athletes were fed high carb foods because enhanced levels of performance were reported for human athletes on those diets.

More recent research shows that higher fat in the food helps dogs more than higher carbs.  In dogs,  it’s fat – not carbs- that spare blood sugar and muscle glycogen reserves.   In fact, almost 90 percent of the energy used by muscles is from fat.  Unlike human athletes, very little of that energy comes from carbohydrates.

In several studies,  dogs with higher fat diets in their dishes outperformed those with more carbs;  the fat promoted mitochondria production- the energy powerhouse in muscles and increased VO2 max to get more oxygen to their muscles.

What does that mean?

If you’re taking your dog out for more than a jog and going more than a few miles a day,  it may be a good idea to talk to your veterinarian about slowly changing your dog over to a quality performance diet.   (It’s always a good idea to take two-three weeks to change your dog’s diet, especially when you significantly increase the fat content).

Ingredients in a performance diet include:

50-65%  of calories from fat.  (A label might read: 20% as-fed)

A ratio from  5:1 to 10:1 of omega 6 to omega 3 fatty acids (It isn’t as simple as just adding olive oil…more on that later).

Energy density of 4000 calories metabolizable energy (Kcal ME) per kg of food.  (Should be on the label or available from manufacturer).

What’s the benefit to higher fat performance diets?

-Increased aerobic capacity

-Increased availablity of energy for muscle contraction

-Lower levels of inflammatory reactions in the body

-Higher caloric density means less food needed to meet energy needs

-They taste great!

Help your dog run better by putting the best fuel in his food dish…and keep the pre-race carbo load to yourself.

Liz Devitt, DVM

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Fat or fit?

August 23rd, 2009

Canine fitness isn’t determined just by pounds or percentages of fat.  Similar to human athleticism,  it’s a combination of body condition, heart health, and the physical and mental ability to enjoy activity.  Check this quick list to evaluate your dog.

BODY CONDITION

Veterinarians use a body condition scoring system, with a number range from 1-5, to evaluate a dog’s weight.  Take a look at your dog.  Three is the ideal score.  You can feel the ribs, but not see them.  When viewed from the side, your dog’s body tucks up at the waist, and when seen from the top the body tapers after the last rib; a score of “2″ means too thin and you can see the ribs;  excessively thin dogs rate “1″  and other bones are easy to see.  On the other end of the range, a dog rated “4″  has a layer of fat padding all of his body and it’s hard to see the “waist”.   At “5″  a dog is obese and looks more like an ottoman, with no tuck at the waist or taper to the sides.

Condition  isn’t just a matter of cosmetic appearance.  A few extra pounds can significantly increase the chances of joint and ligament injury, add stress to the heart, contribute to dental disease, diabetes, and a host of other health problems.  Pudgy pets don’t live as long as their leaner pals, either.  Sound familiar?  Our doctors say (or should say) the same things to us.

Running with your dog is a great way to keep your dog burning calories.  But just as you consider your fitness level before you begin to train for a race, take note of  your four-legged running partner’s fitness level before you go too far & too fast.

HEART HEALTH

Do you know your dog’s resting heart rate?  Most runners have an idea of when their heart is working hard, but never give much thought to what’s happening  under their dog’s furry chest.

The easiest way to check your dog’s heart rate is to place your hand along the lower ribcage of their left side, just about where the elbow meets the chest.  (The heart lies between the 3rd-6th rib.)  You can also check the femoral pulse by lightly placing your fingers, palm side to your dog, high on the inside of the thigh, and feeling for the strong pulse of the femoral artery.

Big dogs have resting heart rates (RHR) of 70-100 beats per minute.  Medium dogs are about 80-110.  Small dogs 85-120.    But, everyone is an individual.   Find out what’s normal for YOUR dog and then check him before you run and after you’re done.  If  your dog can’t get back to a normal heart rate within 5 minutes, it’s time to cut back on the speed or distance- or both.  Don’t forget that excitement can elevate anyone’s heart rate.  So check the RHR in the calm of morning to make sure it isn’t abnormally high.  Just as you might think twice about knocking out your usual training when when your morning heart rate is too high, give your dog the same consideration.

Don’t train by heart rate?  That’s fine.  It still helps to know where your dog’s normal values are, because it’s a rare running dog that declines to join you when the shoes come out and the leash is in your hand.   Better to have some guidelines for his health so you can be proactive on your dog’s behalf.

PHYSICAL HEALTH

There’s a long list of things that could define physical health.  This is my quick visual check list: ease of motion/no lameness, easy  breathing/no cough, wheeze, or hard panting; no food left in the bowl or unusual draining of the water dish;  normal stool and ability to urinate; a glossy coat and bright eyes.  If some of these items are off your radar screen, I’d encourage you to take note,  for your dog’s health.

MENTAL HEALTH

If your dog isn’t always eager to go when your running shoes come out, or he/she doesn’t want to go the whole distance, lags on the leash, or simply sits down…then something’s up.  The best thing about running with your dog is not having to hear complaints about going over the same ground as you did yesterday.

So if the tail isn’t wagging or the dog paws are dragging…make sure you find out why.

Our dogs deserve our attention to their health.

Liz Devitt, DVM

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